The stars were bright but the crescent moon didn't give enough light to see the trail. The canyon was just a big black nothing at 3:20AM. The trees and rocks had a ghostly quality illuminated by my headlamp. I headed down this steep section with lots of log steps and rocks as quickly as I could, cushioning my steps with the trekking poles to save my knees. After only a couple of switchbacks the air warmed dramatically with balmy breezes from below. When I reached the Supai tunnel a thermometer there said 45, and I was happy to stash my sweats under a rock.
Time seemed to pass quickly on the descent to Roaring Springs and soon I was passing the Caretaker Cabin. That hour was marked only by the steady planting of my poles and feet and the little circle of white light that was the whole world.
Cottonwood campground seemed totally deserted, although I know there were surely campers there. Did any of them hear me sitting down on a bench to eat a granola bar and stow my poles? The trail stops with the switchbacks at this point and follows Bright Angel Creek in a gentle descent to the Colorado. I jogged most of those 7 miles, stumbling a few times when I forgot to pick my feet up high enough to clear big rocks. I would later discover a nasty bruise on one big toe and a blood blister under a toenail thanks to these toe-stumpers but at least I hadn't totally wiped out. I was happy to notice another landmark when canyon walls of "The Box" closed in on me.
Dawn was approaching as I saw the orange glow of an electric light from Phantom Ranch. To that point I hadn't even seen a bat in almost 4 hours. It was a relief to see people stirring. I sat down to mix up some Ensure for breakfast and munched a Cliff Bar. I also forced myself to drink 20 oz. of Gatorade at every water stop to keep up on electrolytes. By the time I finished and located a bathroom it was full light and campers seemed to be everywhere.
At the river I took a wrong turn and started up South Kaibab trail instead of Bright Angel. That cost me a few minutes and half a mile. Once on the right track I crossed the river on the foot bridge and jogged a little as the trail ran along the river. Sunrise is spectacular there as the soft morning light colors the higher walls in orange and pink, contrasted with the dark shadows of the lower canyon.
The hike up to Indian Gardens took me through a pretty little canyon with a small stream lined by willows and occasional cottonwoods. Three does just looked at me as I passed 5 feet from them. I passed a few hikers carrying big packs and enjoyed some conversation with others at Indian Gardens. Most people thought this hike was crazy, although many had heard of it before.
The South Rim stops being fun after Indian Gardens. The trail turns into a series of switchbacks with deep dust and huge log steps. At first I was passing lots of people but by the time I got the the 3 mile house I was struggling. Legs were starting to cramp and I had to take stretching breaks. A mule train passed carrying people going down, and then I had to dodge puddles of mule urine the rest of the way. When I started seeing parents with toddlers and Asians wearing heavy winter coats I knew I had to be close to the rim, but it's always further than you think. I started to wonder if I was going to make it. I wasn't even half way and my legs were dead.
I topped out on the South Rim exactly 8 hours after starting. I headed straight for the nearby lodge, found the restaurant and got a table for one. It was a little awkward, as everyone else there was freshly showered and here I was coated with dust and smelling bad, carrying my day pack. I devoured the huevos rancheros and happily noticed that I had cell service. So I called Rachelle to inform her that this was harder than I thought and I probably would be at least a couple hours later than I planned and might have to spend another night in the van if I wasn't up to driving. I figured I would feel better after eating and I wasn't giving up yet.
I had to take a looong bus ride to get to the South Kaibab trailhead, but I figured it was worth it to rest and cut 2 miles off the descent. Mentally I had to break the rest of the hike into sections I thought I could handle: 7 miles of downhill (anybody can do downhill right?), 7 miles of gradual ascent (easy enough) and the last 7 miles would be Hell and I would deal with that when I got there.
Tripping down the South Kaibab trail in the early afternoon, cushioning my steps with the sticks to protect my already sore knees was pleasant enough. I passed lots of day-hikers and backpackers. The sun grew hotter the lower I went but the panoramic views from that trail are spectacular. At one point I heard a red-tailed hawk screech, and saw it soaring directly over me like a guardian angel.
I took another long break at Phantom Ranch. Declining to go in and buy some cold lemonade, I preferred to guzzle my own Gatorade. A bunch of women playing charades at a picnic table provided some entertainment. It was tough to leave the shade and happy relaxing people and hit the dusty trail again, but I wasn't getting any closer sitting there.
I soon entered The Box, where the narrow canyon provided shade for the next hour or so until the sun went down. The creek kept me company with cheerful babbling and added a swamp-cooler effect so the late afternoon was comfortable. The sticks helped propel me up the gradual ascent without the strain I felt earlier on the South Rim. I was tired and my knees were aching but I ignored the fatigue and kept a good pace, motivated by the thought of a nice long break at Cottonwood. I saw another guy heading to Phantom Ranch who I had seen jogging down from the South Rim earlier. At least someone else was doing this hike today, although he was making better time than me.
The high cliffs rising over Cottonwood campground seemed impossibly far away as I emerged from The Box but it was nice to have some perspective. I reached Cottonwood at dusk. The smell of backpacking dinners was never so alluring. A steady parade of campers came by to wash their dishes while I drank my ensure and ate a meager dinner of granola bars. They all felt sorry for me when they heard I was going to the Rim and some offered me food and drink, or extra batteries. All I really wanted was the hike to be over.
I hoped to hike another mile to the Caretaker cabin before turning on the headlamp. The prospect of another break in the near future was comforting and it distracted me from the pain in my knees and feet as the light failed and bats came out. I sort of enjoyed sitting alone in the dark at the cabin as I gathered willpower and pondered the 5000 ft. climb to the Rim. How could I not enjoy sitting at this point? I switched on the headlamp, hoisted my refilled water pack and trudged on.
My memory of that last stage is dim already. The switchbacks were endless, and every turn offered only a steep uphill climb, sometimes with log steps as far as I could see. At this point I mostly focused on putting one foot in front of the other and keeping up a regular rhythm with my sticks and feet. The fatigue numbed my brain and I was conscious of a big blister on my left foot. I passed Roaring Springs and saw some lights way above me. A few tiny black mice scurried on the trail ahead of me.
I was surprised when I caught the pair of backpackers with headlamps. "You're fast" they said, "you caught us". The truth is they were slow. These two older ladies had left Cottonwood at 2PM and were only about half way out. Another pair of hikers passed me going down, a young couple doing a night hike to Roaring Springs.
After the bridge I thought I would never get to the Supai tunnel. A cold wind blew down from the Rim and cut right through my light clothes. When I had almost given up the tunnel suddenly loomed out of the darkness. My only real break on this last leg was putting on my stashed sweats, then I hit the trail, eager for the end. The last 1.7 miles was the longest. The air was getting thin and I had to stop more frequently to catch my breath. The cold air and the appearance of pines and aspens seemed to give false hope that I was nearly there, but the trail only wound on. Finally I saw a sign that I recognized as the last switchback, but I still wasn't through. I had to stop twice on the last 200 yards to rest.
At last I hoisted myself up the stone steps, past the signs and onto the pavement. It was 18 hours and 43 minutes since I started. I slowly walked toward the van, wondering if the Gu I saved would have enough caffeine in it to get me to Kanab when the door to the van opening astonished me. Had I pushed a button on my keys that opened it? What was going on? Before my sluggish brain could process it I heard "Surprise" as Rachelle jumped out and gave me a hug. I think I managed to say "Oh, good, can you drive?" and I hopped in the passenger seat.
Rachelle told me I should stretch first. Apparently She and my brother Chad took the kids to the North Rim and played around until sunset, then he took them home and she waited for me to show up. It's a good thing. I don't know how I would have fared driving, between leg cramps and sleepiness. And it sure was nice to have a welcome wagon to celebrate the end of a very long day.
No comments:
Post a Comment